Madagascar Isn’t What You Think: It’s Tough, Cultural, and Far Beyond Jungles

“One minute you're driving on a plain surface, the next you're in a pothole that could swallow a bus,” says Mittal, describing Madagascar’s infamous RN5. And no, this wasn’t unexpected. It’s exactly what he, and everyone else on this expedition, signed up for.

Different people are drawn to different Nomadic Road expeditions. Mongolia attracts those chasing vast landscapes and nomadic culture. The Kalahari is a magnet for wildlife lovers. The Madagascar expedition, on the other hand, is for the die-hard, won’t-back-down gearheads.

This African island country—especially the deadly RN5 route—pulls in the unhinged ones. These are travellers who want chaos and carnage. The ones who crave a Grand Tour-level, feel-it-in-your-spine kind of drive. They want to break the rhythm of routine so violently that when they’re behind the wheel, neck-deep in red mud or bouncing over splintered wooden bridges, they don’t feel fear. They feel invincible.

“I think after driving on RN5, I can drive anywhere else in the world,” says Santhosh.

But is brutal driving the only thing they come for? What are the other glimmers? What is it that makes this expedition sell out so fast, every single time?

Here’s Ruthless RN5, our raw, unfiltered window into the chaos, the beauty, and everything in between. This isn’t your standard travel blog recap. These are offbeat travel stories from Madagascar told by the people who lived them.

Forget What You Think You Know About Madagascar.

In his field notes, Anthony Bourdain refers to Madagascar as a “little-understood island nation.” And it’s true! When most people hear “Madagascar,” they often think of the animated movie from 2005, with talking animals and slapstick jungle antics. That cinematic association has led to many misconceptions about this beautiful country. But Madagascar goes far beyond its Hollywood portrayal.

First things first: it’s not all jungles and beaches. This isolated landmass is replete with spiny deserts, highland farms, misty plateaus, craggy limestone mazes, mangrove coastlines, dry forests, coral-ringed beaches, and more.

“Every day we explored different animals, different species, different landscapes—so many nature portraits. I feel very, very lucky to be in it,” says Arda, a participant from Turkey.

Here’s yet another myth: that Madagascar is full of “African animals” like lions, zebras, giraffes, rhinos, and elephants. Nope. Instead, it’s home to unusual species that evolved in complete isolation.

On this Madagascar expedition, we journey along the eastern coast of the country. In Andasibe National Park, we encounter reptiles, insects, trees, and lemurs—Madagascar is the only place in the world where you can chase their eerie calls in the wild.

From Mahambo, where the ocean calls to us, we push onward to the RN5—a road in name only, made up of gravel stretches, river crossings, deep sand, slippery red clay, steep climbs, and broken rocks.

Potholes, Patience, and People Who Get You Through

“The most challenging part? Uh… driving and concentrating. I mean, you really have to concentrate while driving; otherwise, you’re just going to break the car,” says Talal.

Oman, where Talal comes from, has some of the best roads in the world in terms of both reach and quality. It ranks eighth globally in the Road Quality Index. So in a way, he jumped from one end of the spectrum to the other.

The stark difference can’t be easy to navigate. But again, isn’t that the point of partaking in expeditions like these? Leaving your comfort zone?

Cem, who came to Madagascar to “absorb a different type of terrain and environment,” would have to agree. “It makes you pretty tired, but at the same time, you're constantly challenged to go through those obstacles, which is also the rewarding part of the whole expedition,” he says.

There were vehicular issues on this expedition, as on any other: one vehicle lost its 4WD, another gave up due to a burnt-out clutch. Towing wasn’t worth the risk, so we left it with the mechanic team. Clients moved ahead in a backup car.

It didn’t matter so much how the group made it to the destination, as long as they did. The kind of unity and community you experience in moments like these is something else.

“I was worried everyone might stay in their own space, kind of divided,” says Ahlam. “But when we were with the group, each person was getting along with everyone. It's like everyone had their own special thing to offer the others.”

Camp Where You Can, Learn What You Must

Aside from the driving, the Madagascar expedition leaves a lasting mark on most travellers for many reasons. “You stay in unknown places, you stay in camps… Sometimes we couldn’t even finish the day’s plan, so we camped much earlier or much later,” says Ram.

Campsites are often chosen based on local knowledge and the expertise of our guides. At times, drones are used to scout safe and accessible spots. It’s not something you come across in your regular, manicured life. And that’s exactly what makes it stand out.

Looking back, Ram reflects, “I go back with a lot of memories, and I hope I can restore them in my realm. But I’ve learned a lot. Frankly speaking, I’ve learned to be much more patient and enduring. That’s what it is.”

Santhosh, too, believes the beauty of a journey like this lies in its unpredictability.

“See, adventure is something which, uh, cannot be planned,” he says. “Like for me, if everything is planned and goes as per plan, it’s not an adventure. Adventure is something you take as it comes.”

Another myth surrounding Madagascar is that it offers limited cultural experiences. That couldn’t be further from the truth. The island is home to a mosaic of ethnic groups, each with its own traditions, music, crafts, and cuisine. And the Malagasy people are some of the warmest and most resourceful you’ll meet.

On Easter Sunday, we reached a pontoon crossing to find no one there to operate the vessel. Everyone was at church. But not long after, locals from a nearby village gathered to help us across. These crossings were often where we met the heart of Madagascar.

Why One Expedition Is Never Enough

After the 10-day overlanding adventure, travellers returned to their home bases: in Turkey, France, Sweden, Oman, the UAE, the UK, and India. Life would do a complete 180. And that’s exactly what makes them want to come back for more.

It’s no surprise that many participants return to Nomadic Road for a second, even third expedition. You want more. And more. And more. You start to realise: there’s no better way to understand the world, not the version the media tells you about, but the one you only meet when you’re out there. On the road. In it.

Watch the Madagascar Unscripted Stories video for a raw, visual rundown of the adventure, featuring firsthand Madagascar expedition personal stories.